When independent Mexican designer Roberto Sánchez announced that he’d be putting on a fashion show at Intermoda in Guadalajara, his first in 8 years, I knew I had to be there. As an avid online and IRL follower of his work, since he was part of groundbreaking label TEAMO, and an admirer of his aesthetic, which has remained undiluted throughout his career, I was itching to see his vision in motion. With a DM to Sánchez’s Instagram account I secured an invitation and booked my flight shortly after.
Sánchez had already shared the title of his collection, “Acapulco en el sueño,” so I had an idea of what to expect. When we met backstage in Guadalajara, he explained that the collection had to do with Acapulco and his memories of visiting as a child. For the hair and makeup, he specifically thought of the look of having just “freshly bathed,” coming “off of the beach or out of the pool.” Super hydrated skin and undone, natural hair.
Sánchez’s brief for the Intermoda hair team was a little more direct — “after sex,” [brushed out, clean, texturized], “natural” [play with middle parts, side parts, loose]. Models sported every length, color and texture, and their hair was styled to look undone — with the exception of model Renata Solis who rocked braids.
To execute his vision, no detail proved to be too small or insignificant. In addition to styling and adjusting each model for backstage photos and the runway himself, Sánchez employed a mini boar bristle brush and zhuzhed the hair to his liking. And with the exacting precision of a seasoned salon professional no less! Hair lead Laura Vargas watched him approvingly. The effect gave effortless despite being anything but.
In total there were 24 looks, all screaming Mexican summer. As per the name of the collection, Sánchez referenced Acapulco, but of his youth — the 1980s — and with it the color story of acid yellows, greens, pinks. Fluorescent and reflective elements, like hand-cut flower appliqués and oversized, statement earrings, were everywhere. But the collection also spoke to the aughts, when Sánchez first made his mark in fashion as a “scene kid” in New York, featuring the mainstays of that era, too: minidresses, bubble skirts, peplum and bling. So, yes, it was Marissa Cooper, and, at the same time, it was also incredibly modern.
Sánchez sourced fabrics that were inspiring to him, which included re- and upcycled options. He also played with asymmetrical lengths, sometimes out of necessity, added hand painted details, and experimented with layering and heavy contrast. Contrasting not only fabrics, where, for example, nude-colored mesh added an edge and softness to many looks, but also contrasting taste.
Sánchez managed to elevate “tacky” beach staples by reimagining the bikini-printed coverup with crystals, piercing gas station sunglasses adorning them with tiny shells, and adding tiny hoop piercings to shell earrings. He also incorporated tee shirts that featured an illustration depicting the legend of Popocatepetl & Iztaccíhuatl, something that tends to read working class but in the context of a runway show becomes fully luxe.
Watch a snippet of the runway show below and even more from backstage on our Instagram and TikTok.
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